The tube that turned out not to be PTFE is a nasty surprise. On the fan side, if you run Klipper: heater_fan only switches the fan on above a temperature, it can’t tell that the fan is unplugged. A fan with a tachometer wire and tachometer_pin set at least shows you the RPM, and you could add a macro that pauses the print if it reads zero while the hotend is hot.

The low-tech version is to look at the heatsink fan spinning after any toolhead work, before the first heat-up. Cheap habit compared to rebuilding a melted toolhead.

For anyone with an HD 7000 / R9 200-era card or an old GCN APU sitting in a drawer: the move to amdgpu as the default for GCN 1.0/1.1 means you get RADV Vulkan, so DXVK/Proton games that simply wouldn’t start on the old radeon driver now have a chance. If you’re on an older kernel or a distro that still binds radeon, lspci -k shows which kernel driver the card is actually using.

Nice to see the talk also cover how he moved from Mesa into kernel work, that part is useful for anyone thinking about contributing.

A few things that might save the next attempt, whichever distro you land on:

Audio: USB DACs on PipeWire usually work, but sometimes they aren’t picked as the default output or end up on an “Off”/“Pro Audio” profile. wpctl status shows whether the D3 is listed under Sinks, and wpctl set-default <id> makes it the default. If it isn’t listed at all, aplay -l tells you whether the kernel sees it. pavucontrol’s Configuration tab is the easiest place to switch the profile to plain stereo output.

4K120: the 2060 Super only has HDMI 2.0, which is why you need 4:2:0 for 4K120 on the C1 in the first place. A common workaround is an active DisplayPort 1.4 to HDMI 2.1 adapter on the card’s DP port. A good one gets the C1 to 4K120 at full RGB, so the subsampling question goes away on Windows and Linux alike (VRR through those adapters is hit or miss, and cheap ones top out at 60Hz, so check that it specifically lists 4K120).

Installer: writing the ISO to a USB stick is much more reliable than a DVD, and checking the ISO checksum first rules out a bad download.

The userChrome part is at least a one-time job. Set toolkit.legacyUserProfileCustomizations.stylesheets to true in about:config, open about:support and click the button next to “Profile Folder”, create a folder called chrome there and put userChrome.css inside it.

The catch is that Sync doesn’t carry it over, so if you use more than one machine it’s worth keeping the file in a dotfiles repo or a synced folder and copying it in after a fresh install.

If you want to watch the numbers yourself, FediDB (fedidb.org) and fediverse.observer list each software by number of servers and monthly active users. MAU is a fairer measure than total accounts, since lots of accounts are dead.

Roughly: Mastodon is by far the biggest, for microblogging. On the Reddit-style side you’re on now (people call it the “threadiverse”), Lemmy is the largest, with PieFed and Mbin as the main alternatives, and they all federate with each other, so you can follow the same communities from any of them. Misskey and its forks are also big, especially with Japanese users.

Since you’re learning: make an account on one and follow a person or community that lives on a different software. Seeing a Mastodon post show up here as a thread is the moment federation clicks.

Both of those are Apple’s own infrastructure (aaplimg.com is Apple’s CDN/edge domain), so it isn’t a third party phoning home. The “apay-cash” part suggests the Apple Cash / Wallet side doing a periodic device check-in, which can happen as long as Wallet/Apple Pay is set up on the device, even if you don’t actively use Apple Cash.

If you want to know which feature triggers it, NextDNS makes that easy: block just that domain for a day and see what breaks (card refresh in Wallet, Apple Cash balance, transit cards). If nothing you use breaks, you can leave it blocked; if Wallet starts complaining, you know what it was for.

Hope you feel better soon.

For PCB isolation milling the thing that usually bites first isn’t X/Y stiffness, it’s Z. Copper clad is never perfectly flat and rarely clamped dead level, and with a V-bit a few hundredths of a mm of height error changes the trace width a lot. Whatever drive you pick, plan for probing (a clip on the bit, the copper as the contact) and a height map / auto-leveling step in your sender; Candle and bCNC both do it. That will matter more for your results than belts vs. screws.

On single vs. dual Y screws: if you go dual later, drive both screws from one motor with a closed belt loop rather than two motors. That keeps them in sync mechanically and avoids the racking/binding problem mentioned above. For a small PCB/laser machine though, one screw under a moving bed is simpler and plenty rigid.